The Smile of Baekje - A Smiling Rock-carved Buddha Triad

When I first heard about "the smile of Baekje", I could not comprehend the meaning behind it. Later I came to know that the metaphor refers to a rock-carved Buddha Triad in Seosan close to the western coastline of the Korean peninsula from the Baekje era (18BCE~660CE). Baekje was a kingdom located in southwestern Korea, together with Goguryeo and Silla. At its peak in the 4th century, Baekje controlled most of the western Korean Peninsula, as far north as Pyongyang. Baekje was a significant regional sea power, with political and trade relationships with China and Japan.

Baekje's first contact with Buddhism came in 384 CE when the Indian monk Marananta arrived in Baekje via China (Eastern Qin) to spread Buddhism. It was during the reign of King Seong (523-554) that the monk Gyeomik first brought the Buddhist precepts to Baekje from India. Gyeomik subsequently was instrumental in the spread of the Ritsu (Vinaya) school of Buddhism to Japan. All these historical facts raised my curiosity to visit Seosan and pay my homage to the Buddha Triad.

It was a long drive from Geoje to Seosan. As it was peak winter season (February, 2020), the area was totally empty. After parking my car I started hiking along a bridge over a creek towards the mountain. It was really chilly, and after a short hike of about 10 minutes from the parking area, I reached the front of the Buddha Triad.

From the front view of the rock-carved Buddha triad image, the standing image in the middle is Shakyamuni Buddha, and on its left is the standing image of Dipamkara Buddha (Buddha who reached enlightenment eons prior to Gautama Buddha, the historical Buddha) and on the right is the half-seated image of Maitreya (the future Buddha, presently a bodhisattva residing in the Tushita heaven) in meditation. Buddha triad was a common theme popular in Northeast Asia in the 6th~7th centuries. This is a 2.8 m tall gigantic Buddhist artwork. The engraving lines and relieving forms on natural rock shows beauty in moderation. The location of this image was a strategic point on the transmission route of Chinese Buddhist culture to Buyeo, the capital of Baekje via the Taean peninsula. In general, Buddhist statues of Baekje are largely divided into refined ones, outstanding in the beauty of balance and giving the feeling of elegance, and folksy ones, gentle but majestic. The Seosan rock-carved Buddha Triad is a representative case of the latter group.

The rich and benign smile of Buddha, warm and gentle smile of the standing bodhisattva, and the innocent smile of the half-seated Maitreya, evince the compassion and benevolence unique to Baekje. The smiles change subtly depending on the angle of the sunlight. Because the images directly face the rising sun on the morning of the Winter Solstice, they receive ample sunlight but are protected from rain and wind by the mountain slope. The aesthetic beauty and the fine carving of these images make them touch our hearts.

I stood in front of this amazing history, an outstanding masterpiece of art. My mind was calm and I listened to the chanting of a monk who was the only other person there. It was time to drive back to Geoje and I had other cultural relics to visit on the way back. I was proud of the fact that I am from the country where Gautama Buddha was born, and it really took some time to realize Buddha's profound influence on the East and Far-East Asia. I felt that he is always inviting me to experience his kingdom without any boundary.