Ulsanbawi hiking course is the most popular trail within Seoraksan national park and is crowded throughout the year. Hikers can enjoy not only the ridges but also Sokcho city and the East Sea from the top. In this route, the lush forest and magnificent granite rocks come together in perfect harmony.
I started early to beat the crowd. Signage indicated that it is a 3.7 km hike to reach the peak. On the way I came across the legend behind the name "Ulsanbawi". The creator called upon all rocks of the nation to create the twelve thousand peaks of Geumgangsan Mountain (currently in North Korea). Ulsanbawi Rock began dragging its heavy body from Ulsan (a city on the east coast of South Korea) towards Geumgangsan Mountain and stopped at Seoraksan Mountain when it became dark. The next day, Ulsanbawi Rock heard that the twelve thousand peaks of Geumgangsan Mountain were already created, and it was forced to return home. Too ashamed and embarrassed to go back home, the rock decided to stay back in the beautiful landscape of Seoraksan Mountain.
After about 60 minutes of hiking, I reached the Heundeulbawi, a precariously placed boulder that rocks back and forth when pushed, where there was a small hermitage, Gyejoam. This grotto was built by Vinaya Master Jajang in the sixth year of Queen Jindeok of Silla Dynasty (652 A.D.). This is the place where three Buddhist order progenitors, Jajang, Dongsan and Bongjeong, practiced Buddhism, and were inherited by Buddhist master Wonhyo and Buddhist order progenitor Uisang. Thus, this place is called "Gyejoam", meaning "inheriting progenitors grotto". Among the rock clusters, a grotto hermitage was built in the cave under Moktakbawi Rock with the most rounded shape. I rested in front of the hermitage, remembering and paying homage to the great masters Jajang, Wonhyo and Uisang about whom I have read about.
From here it was only about a 1 km hike to the top. "Only 1 km? Too easy!", I said to myself. When I saw the almost 1000 steep steps in front of me, I had to eat my words. I decided to take the steps slowly and stopped in between to catch my breath and photograph the spectacular views all around. Great achievements in life are often achieved one step at a time. I inched my way up through the final grueling stages of the hike and finally reached the top!
The vertical rock peak is one of the most representative things to see on Seoraksan Mountain. It is composed of six gigantic peaks at an elevation of 873 m with a circumference of 4 km. According to old records, the name "Ulsan" (meaning "fence mountain") was derived from its fence-like appearance. On old maps it was marked as "Cheonhusan", which means "wailing sky mountain", as the sound of the wind blowing from the mountain was comparable to a wailing sky.
The views around me were spectacular and will remain indelible till my last breath. I looked to the north anxiously: can I see the majestic Geumgangsan across the border in North Korea? Geumgangsan is named after the Diamond Sutra, a Mahayana Buddhist scripture. I could not see Geumgangsan, but I felt its divine energy radiating from there. This holy mountain is only 50 km north of Sokcho city. I took a deep breadth of fresh cool air and prayed for the unification of the North and South Korea.
I realized that the greatest joy we experience as human beings is the joy we can taste by feeling life itself, in the moment, with our consciousness awake and alive. The real success is to transcend the many worldly attachments we have.
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