Seoraksan is my absolute favorite national park, so good that I returned to it once again and have indelible memories that take my soul back again and again to these beautiful mountains!
Both South and North Korea are mountainous countries. There is a 1,400 km mountain ridge "Baekdu-daegan" or "White head great ridge" that forms the backbone of this beautiful peninsula. It starts at Baekdusan (2,744 m), the highest mountain in North Korea. The ridgeline runs south along the east coast of North Korea, piercing the DMZ (demilitarized zone) and entering South Korea. In South Korea, the ridgeline veers west towards the central region, then turns south, and abruptly ends in Jirisan national park. Several mountains are part of this great mountain ridge including Seoraksan. The mountain spirit that emanates from this mountain range disperses into both North and South Korea.
The beauty of Seoraksan is almost beyond description: it needs to be experienced. There are numerous hiking trails in Seoraksan national park, of which I have hiked only two, that are crowded throughout the year.
I started from Geoje island and took about 8 hours to drive to Seoraksan national park. I vividly remember that day, 7 October 2018, with torrential rains due to a typhoon hitting the southeast coast of Korea. The first couple of hours were strenuous, as the winds battered my car moving at a snail's pace on an empty highway. The typhoon could not shatter my spirits as I was determined to reach Seoraksan to see the beauty of the waterfalls after a heavy rain. It was evening by the time I arrived and checked into a small hotel just outside the national park.
That evening I decided to visit the famous Sinheungsa temple (Newly Arising Temple) inside the national park as I could not resist the desire to pray in front of the Tongil Daebul (reunification Buddha). The Sinheungsa temple was built in 1644 by three Venerables Yeongseo, Hyewon, and Yeonok during King Injo's reign from the Joseon Dynasty. There were other temples in the region, Hyangseongsa temple and Seongjeongsa temple, but both were destroyed in 698 and 1642 respectively. Later in 1997 a massive bronze Buddha statue was enshrined in hopes of inspiring the peaceful reunification of North and South Korea,
It was so serene and my mind was as calm as the still water in a pond without any ripples. The cool air was so refreshing that I rejuvenated myself with a few deep breaths. I tried to understand myself - who am I, and what I really want in my life. I only knew that I cannot become a Bodisattva in the current life. I watched the stream slowly flowing in front of me, carrying beautiful foliage of different colors. Maybe it is enough to stay calm and let destiny carry me forward........
The next day I woke up early in the morning. It was a beautiful day with a crystal clear blue sky. I could hear the sound of the stream in front of my hotel, strengthened from the heavy rain the previous day. My plan was to hike about two hours and reach Towangseong falls observatory. Along the trail, there are two other falls: Yukdam and Biryeong.
The starting point of the trail was clearly marked. I crossed a bridge and walked along the side of a stream, thoroughly enjoying the breathtaking mountain views all around. This was an easy route and I reached the beautiful suspension bridge that was opened in July 2014, where one can enjoy extraordinary views of the Yukdam falls. After a short hike I reached the Biryeong falls. The color change was brilliant and both the waterfalls were gushing strong, showing off their full glory.
The 16 m Biryong Falls is located at the northern foot of Hwachaebong peak, and originates from a tributary of Sangcheon stream that flows into the East Sea. Biryong means flying dragon; the legend says that a young woman was sacrificed to a dragon that lived in the falls to make it ascend to heaven and avoid an extreme drought.
The hike from here to the observatory was short but exhausting. The trail is only 0.4 kms but straight vertical. My legs were so tired, but I maneuvered my way up and around the crowd to reach the observatory. I could see Towangseong falls at a distance. The water fall was over 300 m and resembled a magnificent white ribbon cascading down the mountain.
That evening I decided to take some rest after having a bottle of makgeolli. I went to bed remembering that we never lack the love and blessings of mother nature, not even for a moment! I slowly drifted off to sleep, excited for tomorrow's journey to Ulsanbawi, the most popular hiking spot within this spectacular national park.
"The law of the great life force of the cosmos cannot be owned or dominated by anyone, nor can it be defied." - Ilchi Lee.
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