I always wanted to visit the Monument Valley to experience the geological wonders - the Mesas, the buttes, and the spires. Monument Valley is at 5,564 ft. above the sea level and straddles Arizona and Utah covering about 91,696 acres. The entire valley is within the Navajo reservation that covers one third of the 130,000 square-mile Colorado Plateau. This is the place where time stands stills long enough for one to feel the harmony and peace of the last western frontier.
It was a long thirteen hour drive to reach Albuquerque in New Mexico from Houston, Texas. After a good night's rest, the next morning we drove towards Monument Valley via the Window Rock. We had a brief stop at Window Rock - the Seat of Government and Capital of the Navajo Nation, the largest sovereign Native American nation in North America. The monument dedicated to the legendary Navajo code talkers was very interesting and inspiring. They developed a secret military code during World War II so that Japanese cryptographers could not decipher the American military communications!
It was another 3 hour drive from there to the Monument Valley. Traffic was sparse and we reached the valley around 3:00 pm and checked into the historic Gouldings Lodge. I could see the Monument Valley at a distance from the balcony of our room. I could recognize the Brigham's Tomb, King On His Throne, Stagecoach, The Bear and Rabbit, Castle Butte, Big Chief and the Sentinel Mesa at a distance! I should say that the food at the Gouldings' restaurant was out of this world. Note that alcohol is prohibited within the Navajo nation. The restaurants and shops within the nation do not sell it.
Three stages of erosion are clearly visible within the valley:
Mesa - Spanish word for table-is a rock formation that looks like a table. A mesa is usually wide, stable and the first stage of erosion.
Butte - is a rock formation that is smaller and the second stage of erosion from a mesa.
Spire - The final stage of erosion from a butte, is a rock formation that becomes narrow and free standing.
The next day we arranged a guided tour of the valley to get into the interior part which is allowed only with a local Navajo guide. Fortunately the entire Chevy Suburban was for ourselves. The guide stopped at various points of interest, and explained the Navajo way of life in the past and at present.
From the first vantage point we could see the Sentinel Mesa, West Mitten, East Mitten and the Merrick Butte very closely. The East and West Mitten Buttes look like hands, yet it signifies spiritual beings watching over the valley. Merrick Butte was named after an ex-cavalry soldier , who was a prospector, in search of Silver in the valley. From here we drove towards the John Ford's point named after a Hollywood director. I remembered the iconic horseback photograph people took from here. Unfortunately the stable close by was closed. It appears the owner of the stable opens and closes as he wishes, especially during the off-season. The view from here is mesmerizing; the three sisters and the Mitchell Mesa on to the left side, and the Mittens, Merrick Butte, Elephant Butte and the Camel Butte on to the right.
From the John Ford's point, we drove towards the restricted access area around the Thunderbird Mesa and Sleeping Dragon. We stopped at a staged Hogan, a sun-baked mud covered Navajo home, for a sneak-peek view, and then drove towards the famous Totem Pole. In Navajo beliefs, there is always a balance of life. The cone shaped home is a male hogan and the round shaped one is a female hogan. We could see some ancient petroglyphs in this area.
The next day in the early morning I ventured out to experiment with some long exposure photography. It was frigid with the blowing wind. I could take early morning pictures of all the famous formations with the help of my guide. The valley was all for ourselves! I should say that the morning views are unbelievably beautiful, If possible one should go see them without thinking twice.
It was a relaxing couple of days in the valley before we proceeded towards our next destination, Bryce Canyon National Park. I always suggest visitors to read about and have a basic understanding of any place before you visit. It is time worth spent to connect with the surroundings as each and everything will tell you marvelous stories, otherwise it will just be a display of lifeless stone formations. There is a day and night difference between the two experiences.
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