I used to visit the Jiri mountain area quite frequently as there were numerous temples both big and small at the foothills - Hwaeomsa is one of them. Hwaeomsa is an oasis of beautiful buildings and stunning stone works. According to historical records, an Indian Monk, Yeon-gi, founded this temple in 544 C.E. and taught Hwaeom theory (Hwaeom refers to the ability to achieve harmony between all beings in the universe, Huayan in Chinese). In 599 (the first year of Baekje King Beop), around 3,000 monks developed Hwaeom philosophy in Baekje. This temple was rebuilt by many great monks such as Jajang Yulsa (590-658) and Euisang Daesa (625-702) of the Silla, and Daegak-guksa Euicheon (1055-1101) of the Goryeo, and in 1424 (6th year of Joseon King Sejong) it was raised as one of the main temples of Zen Buddhism. During the Japanese invasion of 1592, the huge complex was razed to ground, but thankfully the stoneworks survived. The monks at Hwaeomsa temple organized monk soldiers to resist the invasion that had turned the entire nation into a war zone.
Pictured above is Korea's tallest stone lantern! The octagonal base is unusual for Unified Silla lanterns, and many other unique features include a bulge support. The height is about 640 cm, and its size hints at the scale of the prior building before it was destroyed.
This temple also houses an intriguing pagoda which has two foundation levels, upon which sits four lions that hold it up. The guardians of the four directions are faintly carved one on each of the four sides of the pagoda. The purpose of this pagoda remains a mystery.
Two pagodas welcome the visitors at the main courtyard, The ornate west side Pagoda was built during late unified Silla period and features such reliefs as the 12 Guardians of the Healing Buddha, eight guardian deities, and the guardians of the four directions. In 1995, forty-seven (47) significant artifacts were found inside.
The Eastern side pagoda is decoratively simple compared to the western one. Unlike other Unified Silla pagodas, each level features a simple, single stone body and roof. In 1999, a reliquary and other artifacts were found in this Pagoda during a survey.
This change from a temple based on a single pagoda to one rooted in the double pagoda style is interpreted by some as a sign that the temple had effectively gone from being a Huayan Buddhist temple to a Korean Zen (Seon) Buddhist temple. Hwaeomsa was elevated to the status of head temple of Korean Zen Buddhism in 1426 but still maintained Huayan elements from the Silla era. The temple architecture is rooted in the changes that have occurred in Buddhist philosophy throughout its long history.
The Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) features Vairochana Buddha (Cosmic Buddha). This hall was built during hard times after the Japanese invasion of 1592. The main calligraphy panel in front of the building was sent as a gift by Prince Jichang (1589-1645).
The Gakhwangjeon (The Hall of the Enlightened Emperor) is the largest and the most beautiful edifice at Hwaeomsa. Joseon King Sukjong (1674-1720) renamed the hall when it was rebuilt. A distinct set of seven images - three Buddhas and four Bodhisatvas - adorn this building, believed to be the only set of its kind in Korea.
This temple boasts a spirit of harmony and a 1500-year history that has gone through various changes. The most important aspect of rebuilding during the Joseon era (1392-1910) was the maintenance of the vestiges of Huayan temples during the Silla era (57 B.C. - A.D. 935) and the double pagoda style of the Goryeo era (918-1392), while pursuing the trappings needed to become a head temple of Korean Zen (seon) Buddhism - a new order based on old traditions!
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