Located in Southwestern Utah, near the Arizona and Nevada borders, Zion National Park is a highlight of the celebrated "Grand Circle" of national parks, monuments, historical, and recreational areas in the southwestern United States. Angels Landing is one of the park's most strenuous day hikes, offering spectacular vistas. It follows the West Rim Trail through the famous switchbacks of Walter's Wiggles, past dramatic views at Scout Lookout, and on up to a high point 1,500 feet above the canyon floor. Angels Landing was named by Revered Frederick Vining Fisher because one of his traveling companions suggested - only an angel could land on it. The hike is five miles round-trip and is arduous, with unprotected drop-offs that raise the hikers' adrenalin.
Zion's unique geology has created features that inspire and challenge us. Sand stacked sky-high and cemented together with minerals like calcium carbonate create a sturdy building material. When water rushes through deep cracks and fractures, sandstone erodes into blocks. Sheer faces and tall narrow fins, like Angels Landing, are landscapes revealed by the power of geologic forces.
A permit is required for the Angels Landing hike. Permits to hike are issued by lottery in two ways: seasonally (1-3 months prior) and the day before. More information at recreation.gov. We won the second attempt for the "day before" lottery while we were visiting Zion!
The trail starts from Zion Canyon Shuttle Stop 6 "The Grotto". The trail climbs 1500 feet (453 m), 4.8 miles/ 4 hours round trip. This trail is challenging and steep, with numerous narrow sections and unprotected drop-offs. This is definitely not the hike for anyone who is out of shape or has a fear of heights. Start early in the day for the best conditions and be sure to be off the trail before dark. You would be lucky to win the morning time lottery for this; my wife and I were not.
From the Grotto shuttle stop, we crossed the small bridge over the virgin river and started walking towards the right following the trail signs. Within a few minutes, we reached the checkpoint for the permit. The first twenty minutes or so was an easy walk. After about a mile, the trail reaches Refrigerator Canyon, a narrow hanging canyon with plenty of shade. The steep isolated cliff faces along this trail provide critical habitats for several species, including the peregrine falcon. Just before the trail reaches Scout Lookout, be prepared to squiggle the wiggles as they ascend the steep, sharp zigzags to a scenic plateau - Scout Lookout. Walter's Wiggles is named after former park superintendent Walter Ruesch who engineered 21 steep, stone-walled switchbacks carved into the cliff in the 1920s.
Scout Lookout offers a perfect resting place, breathtaking views, and a preview of the very steep hike up to Angels Landing and the canyon's West Rim. West Rim trail continues to the Kolob Terrace section of Zion. The east fork leads to Angels Landing, a 1,765 m (5790 ft) monolith that overlooks Big Bend in the North Fork of the Virgin River. One can see the intimidating and steep final push to the top of Angels Landing from here. For a moment, I debated whether to venture into it or not - not because I was afraid, but because it was getting late. Anju was determined to go ahead!
The lookout sits at the start of the "fin" that leads to the landing. The most strenuous part of the hike was the half-mile out onto the landing and back. We had to do some rock scrambling along the sheer drop-offs on both sides of the trail. Anchored support chains were attached along some sections of the fin. We had to pull ourselves up by the chains. We decided to leave our backpacks on the trail to reduce weight as it was becoming harder and harder. Finally, we reached the top and could witness one of the most dramatic vistas in Zion, across the Canyon to Observation Point, Cable Mountain, and other East Rim features. The breathtaking view of the walls of Zion from the top of Angels Landing was mesmerizing. We wished we had won the lottery for the morning hike so that we could have spent more time at the top.
It was a challenging hike for both the mind and body - one we will remember forever. On the way back, I could see a California Condor perching some distance below the edge of the ridge. I was really tired and managed to get back to the bus stop. I had embarked on a morning hike the same day prior to hiking Angel's Landing - I should have avoided it to save more energy.
In the end, it was like a dream come true as I was always hoping to hike Angels Landing one day. I never thought my wife would join, but she proved herself to be a true hero, agile and determined!
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