I am thankful to God for giving me the opportunity to live in Japan and Korea for a considerable period of time in my life. During my stay in South Korea, I visited China a couple of times, too. I am fortunate that I could live in Tokyo, visit Seoul several times during my stay in Geoje island, and take a short visit to Beijing as a tourist: the great three capital cities of the Far East. If someone asks me which out of the three cities I liked the most, in a heartbeat I will answer Seoul due to the nature's dramatic presence; Han river and the surrounding mountains. Seoul, as the capital city of South Korea, is world famous. I am not sure how many people know the history behind this capital city which I think is very interesting. As I understand, in the Korean language, ‘Seoul’ is a common noun for a ‘leading city’ – that is, the capital city of a state. This common noun was used as a proper noun only after the declaration of the ‘Seoul Charter’ in August 1946 and referred only to the capital of the Republic of Korea at that moment.
Seoul is a city with great historical depth. There is evidence of human settlements from 6000 years ago. Baekje (18 BCE - 660 CE) Kingdom's capital was located at Hanam Wiryeseong along the southern banks of the Han river in present day Seoul until the capital was moved to Sabi (present-day Buyeo) in 538 CE. Baekje's kingdom survived about 500 years with Hanam Wiryeseong as its capital and went through triumphs and failures alike. The Pungnap clay fortress, Mongchon clay fortress, Acha mountain fortress, the Seokchon-dong tombs, and the Garak-dong tombs are all relics from the Baekje Hanseong Era.
Aware of the significance of Hanyang, Goreo dynasty (918 CE - 1392 CE) elevated its status as the southern capital (Namgyeong) in the middle of the 11th century - one of the three capitals of Goryeo alongside Gyeongju, the capital of the east, and Pyeongyang, the capital of the west. At the beginning of Goreo, Buddhism was the popular religion, and Confucianism was the political ideology of the Government. Towards the end of the Goreo period, Neo-confucianism was introduced, which emphasized philosophical and metaphysical studies on universal principles of man and nature. The geomancers of this time strongly believed that Hanyang would become the center of the world. Despite all these predictions, the caveat that it would be a man of Yi clan (and not Wang clan) that would start a new age in Hanyang prevented the Goreo dynasty from moving its capital to Hanyang. During those times when the Three Kingdoms clashed amongst themselves, Hanyang and its vicinity were the center of the struggle. Those in power understood that without controlling the Han river, there would be no dominance.
During the Joseon dynasty (1392 CE - 1897 CE), the capital was moved to Hanyang (present-day Seoul) from Gaeseong in October 1394 by Yi Seonggye: the commander in Goryeo military who established Joseon dynasty through a coup with the support of the public. He firmly believed that he was the person who would open a bright new era. Located at the center of the Korean Peninsula, surrounded by mountains, and the Han river flowing at the southern end, Hanyang was a very strategic location. Hanyang remained as the capital of Joseon for 500 years. The grandeur of Seoul is enhanced by the five main palaces from Joseon dynasty: Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung. The palaces have lost much of the original structure to the Imjin war of 1592 (Japanese invasion), the Japanese colonial occupation during the first half of the 20th century, and the Korean War.
The Korean concept of Geomancy is called Pungsu-Jiri (Wind-Water-Earth-principles-theory) and was developed by the great master Doseon-guksa (826-898). This is a kind of divination performed according to topography that evaluates features of land, mountain and water, and connect the same to human fortune, misfortune, peace, calamity, harvest, advancement......etc., a fascinating spiritual ecological science. The original Chinese Daoist geomancy is known as Feng-shui. Doseon-guksa studied the various Daoist schools of Feng-shui and adopted the ideas and practices to the Korean landscape and traditions. Goryeo dynasty was founded in the early 900s, taking into account Doseon's recommendations and theories. The influence of geomantic ideas on Korean culture is so profound. Its impact is clearly visible in settlement landscapes, tomb landscapes, literature, and paintings.
There are four outer mountains in Seoul: Bugaksan, Naksan, Namsan, and Inwangsan. A long circular wall connecting the four outer mountains was started to be built in 1395. There are four inner mountains: Bukhansan, Yongmasan, Gwanaksan, and Deogyangsan. Bukhansan is Seoul's guardian mountain. There was an inner wall which surrounded the city with eight gates during the Joseon Dynasty. The city's location was very auspicious from a geomantic point of view.
Sungnyemun gate is the south gate of Hanyang, named according to one of the five constant virtues of Confucianism – benevolence (in), righteousness (ui), propriety (ye), knowledge (ji), and integrity (sin). Of these, the south was represented by propriety "ye". According to the Confucian theory a monarch oversees the south from the north, which was why the south gate, now famously referred to as Namdaemun gate, was made the main gateway to the capital.
Heunginjimun gate (commonly known as Dongdaemun) is the east gate of Hanyang. "In" means benevolence – one of the five virtues of Confucianism represented by the east. It was frequently used by kings when they entered or left the capital for royal excursions or hunting.
Donuimun gate is the west gate to Hanyang. "Ui" – righteousness, represented by the west. The gate was closed in 1413 and replaced by a new one called Seojeonmun gate, located to the north of Donuimun Gate. The new gate was soon demolished in 1422 and the older Donuimun Gate was reinstated after repair. It was during this process that Donuimun Gate earned its nickname “New Gate” (saemun or sinmun in Korean).
Sukcheongmun is the north gate to the capital, north symbolizes knowledge "ji". The gate, however, did not use this character "ji" in its name. Seoul is lower to the south while its northern terrain is higher. It was believed that if the energy of the north were to be added to the name and thereby boost the energy of the northern terrain even further, the capital would then be rampant with negative energy.
Changuimun gate, the northwest gate, came along when the city walls of Hanyang had been built initially. Since the north gate of Sukcheongmun was kept closed at all times, Changuimun gate was often referred to as the north gate. The original gatehouse was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592. The current one was built in 1740 (the 16th year of King Yeongjo’s reign) and is older than any other gatehouses of the city walls.
Gwanghuimun gate is the southeast gate placed between Sungnyemun gate and Heunginjimun gate. It was referred to as the bridge of one-arch gate (Water Gate) due to its proximity to the five-arch water gate (Ohgansumun flood gate) and the Double-arch water gate (Igansumun flood gate). In Joseon, no burial of the dead was allowed within the city walls and all corpses had to be taken out. When there were deaths, Gwanghuimun Gate and Souimun Gate were the gates designated for the purpose.
Referred to also as Dongsomun gate (Small East Gate), Hyehwamun gate is a gate located between Heunginjimun gate (the main east gate) and Sukcheongmun gate (the main north gate).
Seosomun gate (Small West Gate) is located between the gates of Sungnyemun gate (Namdaemun) and Donuimun gate. A new gatehouse was built in 1738 , and the gate was renamed as Souimun Gate in 1744. Like Gwanghuimun Gate to the southeast, Souimun Gate was the gate through which funeral processions passed. Outside this gate, an execution ground was present. It was completely torn down in 1914, as were the walls nearby.
To residents of ancient Seoul, the walls dictated the general scenery of the city as well as the life within. When the bell at the Bosingak Pavilion rang and the gates to the city opened, it heralded the start of another day. When the bell declared the end of a day and the city gates closed, people closed their own doors behind them just in time for the curfew. Once the gates were shut, only women were allowed in the streets within the city, freed from their daytime confinement.
I can go on writing about Seoul forever; the most beautiful city in my view. I touched the Han river and realized that the flow that passed would never pass again. I could feel the emotional attachment of the people of this peninsula to the Han river.
Thank you Bindu Chechi.
Thank you Saji for sharing the fabulous history of Seoul. Yes, I do agree Chinese philosopher Confucius had profound influence on South Korea.I totally apreciate the
philosophy of Confucianism which says the main goal of an educator is to teach people to live with integrity.