" To those who come to the desert with tolerance, it gives friendliness; to those who come with courage, it gives new strength of character. Those seeking relaxation find... a release from the world of man-made tensions. For those seeking beauty, the desert offers nature's rarest artistry " - Randall Henderson, on Desert Trails.
I had heard about the Death Valley area as "the hottest place in the country" ever since I came to the USA in 2003. That was probably why this National Park was way down my bucket list of places to visit. However, we planned to visit this area after visiting Zion National Park in 2022. We flew into Las Vegas, where these National Parks are almost equidistant but in different directions. We reached the park after sunset and checked into the "The Ranch at Death Valley". We were tired as it was a long drive from Zion, including the detour to visit the Valley of Fire State Park near Las Vegas, and soon fell asleep.
The next morning, 29 October 2022, we visited the "Furnace Creek Visitor Center" close to the hotel to gather information about this vast National Park. The weather was a pleasant 61 deg. F (16 deg. C). Death Valley National Park is the largest national park in the lower 48 states. It is one of the biggest expanses of protected warm desert, with 3 million acres of desert wilderness! It is a land of superlatives- the lowest point in North America with the hottest, driest weather in the country.
Death Valley is officially the hottest place on Earth. It holds the world record for hottest air temperature, 134 deg. F (57 deg. C). For five consecutive days in July 1913, Death Valley experienced temperatures hotter than any other place. The valley is the driest place in the United States having the lowest average annual rainfall - less than two inches per year. A desert is defined by less than 10 inches of rain per year and a rate of evaporation that exceeds its rainfall. The evaporation rate here is 75 times its rainfall. Badwater Basin, in the heart of Death Valley, is 282 feet below sea level making it the lowest point in North America.
First, we decided to visit the Badwater Basin. We drove about 18 miles to the south by taking the Badwater road. What we saw was unimaginable - vast, surreal salt flats! Salt crystals expand, pushing the crust of salt into rough, chaotic forms. Newly formed crystals ooze between mud cracks, sketching strange patterns on the salt flat's surface. Passing rainstorms wash off windblown dust and generate fresh layers of white salt. Floods create temporary lakes that dissolve salts back into solution, starting the process all over again. The source of Badwater's salts is Death Valley's vast drainage system of 9,000 square miles. Rain falling on distant peaks creates floods that rush to the lower plains carrying minerals from rocks. Sodium Chloride - better known as table salt - makes up the majority of salts here. Other minerals include calcite, gypsum, and borax. We walked over the salt flat as far as we could and it was a surreal experience!
Our next destination was Artists Pallette. On the way we saw a parking lot from where a small hike leading to a natural bridge commences. Always make time to visit a natural arch - that's my motto. Hiking about one-third of a mile from the parking area, an impressive natural bridge connecting the canyon walls appeared. The bridge was about 35 feet thick, and the same height above the canyon floor. While carving the canyon, the stream sought a course along the path of least resistance and formed a sharp bend that eventually eroded into a fin of rock. Along the trail are other interesting geologic features, such as dripping mud looking like wax formations, hanging canyons, and dry waterfalls.
Here are a few hiking tips for your safety:
Take plenty of water, one gallon per person, per day, or more.
Watch for signs of dehydration, including dizziness, nausea, and headaches. If you experience these symptoms, get out of the sun and drink plenty of water.
Beware of potential flash floods; check weather forecasts.
No dogs or pets are allowed on this trail.
Use caution when exploring side canyons. Going up is often easier than coming down.
Wear sunglasses, sunscreen, and a broad-brimmed hat.
Beware of rattlesnakes, scorpions, and stinging insects. Place your hands and feet only where you can see to ensure safety.
No collecting, removing, or disturbing natural features or historical artifacts.
From here we drove towards the "Artists Palette" area. We could see an intense spectrum of colors splashed across the furrowed hills. More than five million years ago, repeated volcanic eruptions blanketed the landscape, depositing ash and minerals. The volcanic minerals were chemically altered by heat and water, with variable amounts of oxygen and other introduced elements. Chemical analysis has identified a paint pot of elements: iron, aluminum, magnesium, and titanium, but no copper. The time of the day, clouds, and the rare rainfall shift the intensity of the colors, making each visit a unique experience. Note that vehicles longer than 25 feet (7.7 m) are not allowed on this route, a small detour along the Badwater road. The one-way loop is paved for its entire nine miles.
On the way back we were curious to check out a sign "Devil's Golf Course" - crystallized salts compose the jagged formations of this formidable landscape. Deposited by ancient salt lakes and shaped by wind and rain, the crystals are forever changing. Be careful! Walking on the Devil's Golf Course is difficult. A fall could result in painful cuts.
We decided to go back to the hotel and have lunch, the tasty burgers were a real feast. The ambiance and the interior decor at the restaurant were quite relaxing. There were numerous taxidermy mounts on the walls. After lunch, we decided to take some rest before setting out in the evening. The plan was to visit Zabriskie Point to watch the sunset and proceed to Danters viewpoint.
The blog on Death Valley NP will continue.
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